So there hasn’t been a decent swell in weeks. I literally can’t remember the last decent 5 to 6 foot wave I surfed. today i woke up at 8 to go to Sayulita for a morning session, thinking that even if there is no swell, surely there will be a little something happening in Sayulita, since it’s outside the main bay and in open ocean. But sure enough, when I got there, there were tiny little 1 foot waves with 30+ people dropping in on each other trying to catch what little waves there were. I grabbed a coffee and a banana chocolate chip muffin and headed home. Later Marcia, mom and I headed to Destiladeras for a little sun tan action and i brought the short board just in case my favorite summer spot, Dinosaurs, had anything at all surfable. When we got there, there seemed to be some good little wave action going on, so i grabbed my board and headed up the beach, Dinosaurs is just a short walk from Destiladeras. When I got to the spot, I saw a couple of venturous souls out there trying to catch what little waves were coming in, but for the most part, nothing even slightly resembling a surfable wave was coming in. it’s a shame I tell ya.
On my walk back to Destiladeras, I started to ask myself if it had been this way all summer but that since I was just starting to surf, i hadn’t noticed. and then i fell out of my deep fog. the waves have been getting smaller and smaller and the length between major swell systems has been getting longer and longer. traditional local wisdom says that during the summer the swell is from the south so spots inside the bay, like Dinosaurs and Burros, since they face south, get the summer swell and that spots like Sayulita get a better winter swell since it switches to the north, and Sayulita faces due north. but i don’t believe it. i haven’t seen anything nearly as good as the stuff i surfed in september and october. where oh where has all the good surf gone?
Oh well, I guess I just have to make my surf pilgrimage to Tikla and Puerto Escondido. I hear they both rage this time of year. In the mean time, I’m checking stormsurf.com and bouyweather.com on the hour, waiting for the perfect swell. Mother Nature truly does wait for no man.
This is the life of a surfer.
may the surf gods smile on me soon. in the mean time, here’s a picture of Burros, my favorite secret surf spot. how do you get there? don’t ask.
