Big Swell.

A nice big storm off the coast of Michoacan, earlier this week, is sending some pretty large waves our way. Last night was the first of the swell and so I went to Punta Burros at around 6pm. The waves at Burros get big but they are not very fast or very strong. As I paddled out to the line up a huge set came in and I had to paddle like mad to avoid taking them on the head. I’d say the largest wave was maybe 7 or 8 feet tall. The Problem with Burros is that everyone else goes there too, last night there were at least thirty people out surfing. That’s a lot of people. For the two hour session I caught maybe three waves and the rest of the time I spent fighting and paddling for the others. If nothing else it’s exercise, but it can be awful frustrating some times. Some people would probably chuck this up to the fact that more seasoned surfers probably know how to read the waves better, but I’d say that this is not the case. When large swells are coming in, people go nuts, they drop in on each other, they take off at the wrong spots, they try to whistle to make you get off the wave – thinking they are in the right of way. Today, I’m going to Veneros, el paredon (the wall). early before the winds show up.