The swell that came through this weekend was big, but the water was choppy and next to impossible to ride. Dropping in on a wave and then hitting tons of tiny little waves. not good. I got one really good ride in, last night. I carved up and down the wave and then popped up over the crest and floated down. total rock star. Indalecio was right there to see the whole thing, he was well impressed. I gotta get that little waterproof Pentax.
After the session, we went over to “Pools” which is a more advanced surf spot. Pools is a point break with the best waves in the area, unfortunately it breaks into a shallow bay of rocks, so unless you really know what you are doing, it’s best to stay out of the water. Pools was going off last night and there was one guy in the water. Easily 6-8 foot sets, a little bit of tube. It was beautiful, watching this guy work the break and avoid getting pounded on the rocks. Since the break is so close to the rock mound, I’ll most definitely bring a camera next time. I had one of those grom moments where you’re in that “awe” mode and you can’t wait til your skills come up so you can surf at Pools. it was humbling watching the lone surfer navigate the break. Pools takes smarts, guts and know-how. And it truly is one of the most beautiful breaks.
