A small little swell is gracing us at the moment and this afternoon I headed out to Burros to enjoy it. The tide has been super low recently and today the rocks that line the beach of Burros were rearing their ugly heads, making it hard to enter. The first thing I noticed as I hit the water was that the ocean temperature has literally dropped 10 degrees or more since the last time I went surfing, a week ago or so. I know I know the cold water brothers are calling me school-yard names at the moment, but the temperature was truly shocking. We’re talkin’ wet suit cold, here. I don’t know what storm was brewing off the coast (it seems in this season there always is one) but it was most certainly pushing the cold water up from the deep.
The waves were pretty shabby one and two footers with sets of three and four footers every fifteen minutes or so. I can’t complain though, it’s been so long since I had a decent session. The waves didn’t have much strength and since I was riding the Al Merick, there was an awful lot of pumping going on. And then the lulls would come, numbing my legs and cramping my feet, then a nice set would roll through and my arthritic legs would protest any sudden movement. Do I sound like i’m an old man yet?
It was awesome being out there again and I enjoyed every minute of it. Some sets had really nice peaks that broke in both directions, so I practiced my lefts. and I suck at lefts. so it was good day. The swell peaks tomorrow morning, so I may just wake up a little early and have myself a much needed morning session.
Here’s to a good (but small) day at Burr-ohz!
