Summer is barreling down on our heads now, it’s only in the high 90’s during the day but the humidity is insane. And it’s not even raining yet. The water is blue blue blue. We woke up a few mornings ago to a few drops of a light drizzle. Which is unheard of around these parts, cuz everyone knows that it will start raining on June 15th. And that’s a fact. I guess I proved myself wrong, in the last sentence, but what the hey! this is my journal.
Surfing has been good the past few days. Yesterday at Burros and then today, a failed attempt at Veneros (with no waves) and then back to Burros for some pretty good 6 footers, but way too many people in the water. I had some pretty good rides and two of the worst wipeouts I’ve ever had. One, dropping in on a cresting wave and then falling over backwards, and instead of penetrating the water, just sliding down the front of the wave and snapping my neck as my head hit the water. ouch! But I guess it comes with the territory. I can’t complain, it was a good day.
There is a new addition to my surf quiver. That’s right a new longboard. My good friend Meagan just packed it up and moved back to the US and she needed a good home for her ridiculously long, longboard. I’ve been wanting one for awhile and so things just worked out. I’ll post photos in the next few days. The board is a champ and rides so smoothly. Thanks Meagan!
Kiwi says that there are supposed to be 8 footers on thursday, let’s hope he’s right.
