Ya see, when you hang out with a bunch of non-surfing types, it’s easy to be dissuaded from things like surfing in cold water. Think about it, cold foggy, cold water, small waves. why would you want to subject yourself to that? and the sharks?!
Bolinas is the local spot for my good buddy, Tim Rosa, who called me up today to drag me out to his local surf spot, right off the main channel. At first I was hesitant, sleepy from working off a heavy lunch. But what proper surfer could pass up a direct offer to hit up the local spot. I called Tim back, he picked me up and we were on our way, the car loaded down with two longboards.
We briefly talked about the “Shark” issue. Tim’s advice: just put your thoughts about sharks into a little black box and lock it away somewhere. good advice.
A full 4mm wetsuit and boots actually kept me pretty damn warm. As we hit the water, it took me at least ten minutes to be able to put my hands in the water for more then a few seconds. As I made my way out to the break, I tucked my hands into the arms of the wetsuit just to be able to paddle. Icy pain shooting through them. After twenty minutes or so, I actually got used to the cold water and at some point, my hands were not that cold. With a thick wetsuit on, cold water surfing is something kinda like snowboarding on a cold windy day. not much worse.
I managed to grab a few foot high waves, one particular ride was super nice as I got in the pocket and enjoyed a nice long ride with good style. All it takes it that one ride, to make it all worth it. Watching the locals all out there, surfing those waves, serious, yes, very serious. The way they handled the small waves, they could have been one foot or five feet, the locals were all business. I felt a little rookie-ish. Two or three locals had excellent form, I was in awe of their grace.
The scenery was amazing. A south facing beach with a point to the west. The fog floating over the point towards the south-east. Just to be sitting out there in the water would have been worth it all by itself. With the horizon sending little waves our way, a surfer’s mandala, turning around to face the coastline, the northern California is more beautiful then I can possibly describe.
Surfing Bolinas will be an experience I’ll never forget. Not only for the surfing but for the idea of opening up my mind to surfing places that don’t involve warm water, warm air and five to six foot swells. Surfing isn’t about the weather conditions, it’s about the experience. Part physical exercise, part fun, part exhilaration, part meditation, part nature walk, surfing is the ultimate fusion of unique bits that stand all on their own, making a unified whole, I’d use the word “orgiastic” to describe it, but I’m like using more simple vocabulary. Surfing is the shit. period. cold water, warm water. doesn’t matter.
As we sat in the lineup the occasional thought of sharks did pass my mind and each time, I crammed them back into my little black box and stomped up and down on the sucker with fierce determination.
Thanks Tim!
