Yesterday we got a nice little swell. Salim is in town, visiting from Dallas, so the homies all went out for a morning seshin. We hit ‘El Paredon’ and the waves were 5 to 6 feet or so and glassy. Sharp drop-in and not the longest ride, but nice speed. We all had fun.
As I got back to the house and put in some finely concentrated work, from my desk I could hear the waves pounding against the sand, 2 blocks away. As the day progressed the pounding got heavier. At 4:00pm, I headed back out to ‘El Paredon’, to catch some mo’. After the long and arduous walk down the beach, I could see that the swell wasn’t hitting ‘El Paredon’ so I schlepped back to the car and headed for Burros. Burros had 6 to 8 foot waves rolling through. helluv nice. 30 people in the water and 3 dudes dropping in on each other every wave. But atypical of Burros, the sets were arriving in regular 3 to 5 minute intervals, Inna Fine Style.
I had a bunch of fun.
Hey there, surf was fun yesterday. I’ve been reading your blog for a while, ever since I came across it about 2 years ago when I visited PV/Punta de Mita for a long weekend with my girlfriend. I’m actually back here right now by myself (staying at a hotel in Punta de Mita — “la quinta del sol”, nice place!)…so if you want one more gringo to join you on a surf session, send me an email. NBennett@gmail.com. I’ve just been crusin’ longboard style out at El Faro but would be up for Burros (or anywhere else) sometime as well.
Anyways, not sure how many random comments you get from strangers you’ve never met…but…figured why not. I always liked getting comments on my blog I used to keep when I was working in India. (www.paneerbelly.blogspot.com — self promotion). So, regardless, keep up the good work on the blog! Take care.