Ok. So I’ve been living here, in Mexico, for about 3 1/2 years now. I am pained to admit that last night was the first time I’ve surfed a certain local mainstay break here in the area. One word: fuckingincredible.
That big swell that hit California late last week is now rolling through our area. On Sunday, we boated it over to Quimixto for some heavy, blown-out left hander action (which truth be told, was wasted on me as I only got like 2 waves, but I did manage to get some good in-the-lineup pics and video - coming soon) and yesterday we caught the last few hours of sunlight up at “new favorite break”. The waves were consistent and the water glassy, the sun oozing late afternoon golden hour vibe.
The set up: It’s perhaps the longest wave I’ve every surfed. 3 sections and if you can make all three, I’d say it runs in the 600-700 meter territory. yeah, loooong. The first section is perfect longboard territory. The second section ends with two large protruding boulders that make perfect goal posts and enough swirling eddies from submerged boulders that as you shoot the section, the hair raises on the back of your neck. If you can make it to the third section, the wave doubles in speed and height and walls up super nice and fast, this inside section should be called “race tracks”. At low tide it’s most likely deadly and on bigger days I’m sure it’s tube city. I got slotted in a wave in this section, pig-dogging it, and blissfully unaware that I was mini-tubed, or so says homie Pato.
Last night was the perfect storm: a new incredible spot, a nice big mellow perfectly breaking swell, glassy water and a wicked pacific coast sunset. I’d say it was my favorite and most productive session in at least a year. When the boat came to pick us up, we were cursing the jokers assigned to guard time + space for not giving us a few more hours to bask in that moment.
me suena a el faro