photo by Evan Asano
Evan at Surf There Now has a killer post: Points North – Surf Exploration In Northern Sumatra
The swell finally arrives. We wake up at dawn at a renowned surf break, a “secret spot” our guides insists that we keep unnamed. We are mesmerized by surf perfection. Waves start more than a mile out from our anchorage, open up wide on the shallow reef in a blue barrel and reel across it in beautiful groomed lines. There are few waves in the world that break with this consistency and length.
For the next two days we surf until we can’t any more. The wave has broken two of our boards and torn the fins off of two others. We’ve been spun on wipe-outs to the point of not knowing up from down and been dragged across the sharp reef. We are sunburned, chafed, and exhausted. By the time the swell subsides, we’re too spent to surf anymore. It’s everything we’ve traveled across the world for.
I dream of shit like this constantly. Awesome! and it made for a great ‘morning cereal and coffee’ read. The article and accompanying photos are published in recently shuttered Everywhere mag1. Thanks Evan!
- what a shame! ↩
3 Comments
that wave looks way to familiar to be a “secret spot” ;-)
trust me this wave is definitely a secret spot. there were 15 surfers on it when the swell hit. rides were 30+ seconds long! apparently is was longer before the earthquake.
thanks for the link, ed! also agree about everywhere, too bad they couldn’t get momentum with it.
My bad — looked like a certain famous right at first glance – either way it’s beyond SICK. I can’t even imagine surfing something like that. Reading the full story now.