photos from yesterday’s session at Holi, after the tide and wind had both come up
Ok, this is version 2 of an entry I wrote last week and than mistakenly deleted1. Where in the world is Mundo Fladonski? After the ill-fated trip to Ticla which ended promptly with my board being stolen, I flew out to Quintana Roo to hang with my girl and her mom for a week or so. Pictures coming soonish for both Ticla and Q.Roo.
Back to the homestead and back to the grindstone, I’ve been knee deep in editing the final touches on the book, hence the lack of updates. Too much computer time makes not enough surf time. The storm clouds broke this past weekend with nice big swell coming through the area, putting an end to almost three dry weeks2. I’ve managed to get a session in every day since Friday, it must be some kind of record. The ocean has essentially been flat for three months, so I’m taking every opportunity.
I’ve gotten barreled three days in a row! The first two days on some walled up second peak inside break, with a mushy, crouched, eyes closed, foam ball. And yesterday, with a gorgeous, open-eye, overhead, throwing ledge with a closing iris. The last was straight out of a surf film, complete with slow motion wall creeping up my right side, heaving overhead and then down my left side, without touching me – a spiritual experience of the nth degree. Of the four tubes I got myself in to yesterday, I managed to ease out of one of them. I really dig barrels.
Two interesting sightings, both surfboard related. The first: a local kid, Roberto, who owns a surf shop in Bucerias with his girl Barbara had a super nice come-up. Somehow he ended up with an Andreini diamond-tail single fin, roughly 7′0″ to 7′2″ with a Greenough 8a-like fin. The board is a bit beat up but looks to be only a few years old. Super stoked for him. The second sighting was a Skip Frye triple-stringer twin feel fish. Looks to be about 6′8″ or so. Some visiting surfer was riding it out at Burros in overhead conditions this past weekend. The thing was a bolt of lightning and dude knew exactly where to put it and when. First I saw the outline of the board, then the contrast between the stringers and the white glossy coat and then the little wings logo. This is perhaps the most beautiful board I have ever seen, in action, with my own two eyes. I wanted to stop and talk with the guy, but he was lightning fast and never sat still enough for me to catch up. Was he a ghost?
Incidentally, did you know that Skip Frye’s wife, Donna, is on the San Diego City Council and ran as a write-in candidate for Mayor and won a majority of votes, but lost the election because people spelled her name “Fry” instead of “Frye”3. How can I help this lady get elected?! Here’s an interview with Skip Frye from Surfer Mag from 2004, about the possiblity of becoming the first husband. great read.
And lastly, the Japanese Motors album is out. I’m downloading it from iTunes as we speak. support the cause. Update: the album is sick! and worth every penny of the 10 bucks I payed for it. I’ve already listened to it 3 or 4 times today. The songs are well written, simple, raw and rocking. You can put the entire album on repeat and not get bored. It’s good. Q.Peeps approved.
