Swell + Fish = Radtacular

After my hull sojourn, I spent the last two days back on the new fish. The height on yesterday’s waves required the nimble, lush curves of something of the twin keel variety. I know I say this periodically, but daaamn! if I didn’t have one of the best sessions of my life yesterday. no joke.

It was the kind of session filled with heavy drops, the ones where the lip breaks over your head on the way down and you shoot out of the forming tube, water in your eyes, only to find a big, huge face to carve on and right back at the foaming mouth. Who says you can’t thread-the-needle on a fish? Done. Inside section, walling up, crouch, to mini-tube? Boom!

Yesterday I felt like Superman. I could do anything. And that surreal feeling, knowing you’re having one of the best sessions of your life, was punctuated by one of the most beautiful sunsets, the kind I spend years trying to capture on camera.

You know when you love something so much and you just can’t let it go? It’s like when you’re a kid and you love the kitten so much, you squeeze it to death?

Today I went back out to home break, hoping for a redux. No such luck. Wave heights had dropped dramatically, the wait between sets was comical and the line-up way too crowded. I caught one wave, albeit a really nice ride with a few nice carves. But only one wave. I spent the rest of the time, jockeying for position and sliding down the backside of the smallish waves. So frustrating. Such a contrast to the day before.

Time is running, running and passing, passing and running….