Category Archives: adventures

Mary’s Sari Safari

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My parents have been in India and Nepal for the past few weeks. They are there for another month or so. My mom has been writing about their adventures on her blog: Mary’s Sari Safari. My parents are in their mid-60s and on a travel package that has them traveling by 3rd class trains, rickety sail boats, busted up buses and rickshaws. They are traveling with a group of kids, the oldest who is half their age and the youngest who is a third of their age. Here’s a recent email exchange between my mom and I:

Me:

momma, your blog is amazing! i can’t believe you got all this down. I can’t believe just how crazy your stories are. I hope the rest of the trip is more relaxed. I’m very glad you only have 2 weeks on that leg of the trip. it sounds like it’s 100 times harder than our crazy-ass driving trip through rajasthan.

Mom:

Well, actually, I think the India part of the tour was fantastic, and the Nepali part would have been, too, if we had actually been able to go to Lumbini and Chitwan1. But 2 weeks with Intrepid is enough. I knew it when I peed by the side of the road approaching Kathmandu and realized that that was the best toilet I’d used in days.

Definitely worth a read.

  1. They were detoured from Lumbini and Chitwan National Park by rioting rebel forces on the India/Nepal border that were burning buses and killing people (?!?)
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Sojourn to NYC

goofing off
Square Dancing at Camp Sloane

I’m back on the scene after a 10 day jaunt to the NYC area to escape the Mexican summer heat. Our travels brought us to family and friends, from PS1 and MOMA to square dancing and water skiing in Northwest Connecticut.

For the first part of our trip, we ran around New York, getting our museum fix on. We hooked up with Mexico-to-RockawayTaco transplant Andrew Field and played in the brilliant PS1 exhibits of Olafur Eliasson and Public Farm 1, making a stop at Mollusk NY. Uncle Timbo accompanied us to MOMA for a peek at the Home Delivery prefab exhibition and we got our shop on as we bought tons of baby crapola in preparation for the the arrival of the seedling in early January.

The second part of our trip brought us to Lakeville Connecticut, home of Camp Sloane. The place where I spent every summer, first as a camper then as a counselor. Labor Day weekend is Family Camp, so we joined some old camp buddies and reminisced around the camp fire and enjoyed the nature wonderland that is the Berkshires. Some serious spiritual stokage occurred.

We’re back in Vallarta now. It’s hot and the water’s flat. Ro just text’d saying “they” say there are waves, so I’ll end this here. Got a grip of photos to edit through, so hold tight.

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Quintana Roo

quintana roo - feb 08

Here, presented to you, the viewer, 40+ photos from last week’s trip to the mexican coastal state of Quintana Roo, nestled on the Caribbean side. Photos taken in Puerto Aventuras, Akumal, Playa del Carmen and Cozumel above and below water.

I got the chance to put the new Canon G9 through it’s paces with the underwater housing. Overall, it’s just really nice to be able to bring a camera into that underwater environment. Getting in to the water at Akumal, for a snorkel, wondering to myself why I had brought the camera and being presently surprised at the site of 10-12 sea turtles, huge schools of fish and 3-4 different kinds of manta rays. In Cozumel, we dove two amazing spots off of chankanab reef in the columbia area. Huge coral formations with spacious swim-throughs and rolling underwater sand dunes.

I have a few ideas floating around my head on the theme of tourists. you can see the beginnings of this project in the photos above. enjoy!

slideshow | photoset

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LA LA Big City of Dreams…

… But everything in LA ain’t always what it seems.

Well, we rolled in to Lost Angels last night at around 7:dirty. Only one encounter with Joe-Law along the way (in jacked up Riverside country, no less). Seems my registration was in “non-operable” mode. big oops. We spent basically the entire days today, visiting various different branches of the California DMV to get my registration and license in order. A fine, sunny california day wasted on horribly designed interiors of bloated state government agencies.

All was forgotten with the first few slurps of some damn good Pho, from our favorite little vietnamese pho joint on Sunset and Silver Lake Blvd. Pho is perhaps my favorite thing to eat, ever, and today’s soupy, herbie action was the bomb.

Nothing else was really accomplished and I managed to screw up the zip code on two different packages that were to be delivered tomorrow, in time for our flight, tomorrow night at midnight. I suck. I managed to iron things out with UPS, but we’ll see if the packages come in, as the customer support says.

Unrelatedly, my new H2 fins got here and I can hardly control myself. these things weigh mere onces, where my normal fins way pounds. they’re freakin sick and I can’t wait to fuck ‘em up on some hard ass balinese reef. i’m such a kook.

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The Drama

We’re midway through our drive up to Los Angeles, holed up in a killer little hotel called Hotel San Sebastian in Hermosillo (it’s the perfect hotel for a midway point between Vallarta and LA). We took off at 6am and managed to cover half the total driving distance. roughly 13 hours of driving. This, after one crazy-ass night.

Our friends Fer and Yanen got married on the beach in Nuevo Vallarta, last night. While getting ready, I slammed my foot in to the base of our bed and crunched my pinky toe. I screamed my brains out for five minutes, finished getting ready and I hobbled to the car and we were off to the wedding. During the ceremony, I could see the toe turning purple as it blew up and started turning over sideway. After the mass and vows, but before communion (classic catholic beach wedding), Marcia and I “done r.u.n.o.f.t” and went to a private emergency room in nearby Mezcales. One Xray later and the on-duty doctor was saying I had broken my toe and needed a full foot cast. I was less then confident and pissed about the prospect of having to cancel our trip to Bali, on the advice of doctor who has no real experience with foot trauma. We high-tailed it outta there and a few phone calls later, we were off to San Javier, a well regarded private hospital, to meet a trauma and foot specialist recommended by my good homie Pato. Second opinion doc said the toe wasn’t broken and taped it to the next toe and all was well again in the world.

By 9:30pm we were back at the wedding. We grabbed some food, hung with our tribe, gave the groom and bride our best wishes and were back home in bed by 11pm. On the way home, Marcia started to get some kind of allergic reaction, assumably from the pesto she had eaten at the wedding, so we stopped for foot wrappings and anti-allergy med. Mexico is great like that. Nothing like self-diagnosis and being able to buy meds without a prescription.

After two ominous omens, from last night, we got a good early start today and covered a crap-load of miles in good time with little stress. Tomorrow, we’re off at 6am again and we should be in Los Angeles by 8pm.

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Honeymoon Round-Up

Ed y Marcia at Angkor WatEd and Marcia at Taj Mahal

In late July 2006, I proposed to my then girlfriend of two years, Marcia Yunuen Vara, and thankfully she happily accepted. We had expected to get married in the spring of the following year, but in the fall, as we started the wedding planning process, we quickly realized that late fall / early winter was our best option to have a relatively inexpensive, small wedding (unfortunately, living in a highly desirable ‘destination wedding’ location can have it’s problems). In the middle of October, we picked our wedding date to be December 1st, 2006. 6 weeks away. We were both fine with this date. We knew we wanted to go on an extended traveling honeymoon and we had a few places we knew we wanted to go. Marcia decided to plan the wedding and I set about to plan the honeymoon. While Marcia ran around all day pulling her hair out, looking after the wedding, I stayed up all day and night researching travel guides and websites. I finally settled on Bali, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and India (we didn’t quite make it to Laos). I booked plane tickets for: Vallarta → Los Angeles → Bali → Bangkok → Delhi → Los Angeles → Vallarta. The planning for travel inside the Thailand / Cambodia / Vietnam area and the traveling inside India was left open to allow for spontaneous decision making and so I roughed out itineraries for these parts of the trip to have some idea of how long to spend in each place. I booked hotels for the first night or two in each location and researched places to stay in every possible town or city we would have any chance of visiting. I had Lonely Planets or Rough Guides for each country and by the time we got going, my guides looked like they had been attacked by post-it notes and a yellow highlighter.

The entire trip would be 10 weeks (2 1/2 months).

On December 1st, Marcia and I were married in a small but lovely civil ceremony on the beach in the town we live in, Bucerias, in the state of Nayarit, Mexico. Our close family, local friends and a few of my good friends from Los Angeles were in attendance. Two days later we left for L.A. and 5 days later, we were on our way to Bali.

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… on a jet plane

Tomorrow we blow this popsicle stand for less hot, less humid and more vertically oriented pastures. We is gwon to New York City. And as is customary, just as I leave town, a nice big swell is on the way. My friends have started asking me, every few weeks, if I plan to go out of town, on account of there being no waves and that they could use a day or two of good surfing.

I’ll probably post daily links as usual and the occasional snippet, I’ve uploaded photos to flickr from the Varanasi, India, part of our honeymoon. I’ve been too stacked to write an entry around it, so I’ll knock that out in the next few days, but in the meantime, you can check the pics here.

city. subways. museums. indie movies. concerts. culture. shopping. bread and cheese. food. more food. shopping. yay.

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Guanajuato

Guanajuato

This past weekend, Marcia and I had some family business to attend to in Leon, in the state of Guanajuato, about two hours east of Guadalajara. Leon is kinda like Tucson’s mexican cousin. It’s not very pretty, but it’s got a lot of heart. Sunday we ventured over to Guanjuato, the capitol of the state.

Guanajuato is spanish-colonial era city built on top of large tunnels that once held run-off waters, but are now used for traffic. Allowing large parts of the downtown area to be pedestrian-only. This makes it thoroughly confusing as you enter the city by car, as you literally have no idea where you’re going, cuz, well, in your in a series of maze-like tunnels, you find a parking spot and a stairway up to street level, orient yourself and hope you’re not too far from where it is you’re going.

The city is a Unesco world heritage site and it shows. Guanajuato is one of the cleanest and most beautiful places I’ve been in Mexico. Small narrow streets and narrow angles lead to plazas in every direction. Expertly trimmed trees and park benches in everywhere, it reminded me of Florence or Venice. There is a strong artist vibe, we encountered painters, photography, breakdancers, musicians and the most bitter/sweet mime I have ever seen.

We packed as much as we possibly could into the 24 hours we spent in this amazing city. I can’t wait to go back…

slideshow | photoset

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Last Days in Vietnam

sleepin'saigon bakerseatin'

At this point in our trip, we had been traveling for a month and a half. We both had some serious homesickness. There were a few times that we actually considered cutting the trip short and returning home after Vietnam. We felt run down and in serious need of re-energization. In addition to the travel fatigue, I was taking a cheap anti-biotic we picked up in Hué for some stomach bug I had. It was making my face feel like a shriveled up prune. I stopped taking it, the second to last day in Saigon and immediately things started to improve. It was also at this point in the trip that I started to have real problems with the malarial medication we were taking. I was having regular violent dreams, depression and I assume the tiredness was partly from the meds as well. It started in Cambodia and intensified throughout Vietnam. We took Larium. My advice is to stay away from it, it’s the nastyness. There’s a new anti-malarial med out on the market (with few side-effects), but we balked at the $1000 price tag (for two people for 2 1/2 months), so we went with the cheap shizz and in Vietnam it really started to catch up with me. We spent the last three days in Saigon, taking it easy, eating lots of Pho and watching the Australian Open Tennis Championships on the tube at our guesthouse. We didn’t see nearly as much of Saigon as we wished, but it was a good thing, by the last day in Vietnam we were both feeling a million times better. The downtime really helped get my head straight as we headed to India…

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Saigon

or Ho Chi Minh City, depending on who you ask.

traffic light stop

This is Saigon. Hanoi’s free market southern sibling, as gigantic, hectic and bustling but for some odd reason, slightly less overwhelming. It was here in Saigon that we mastered crossing the street in an oncoming wave of thousands of motor scooters. We discovered the secret one day while standing on the sidewalk waiting for a lull in the traffic. A nearly blind, little old lady brushed past me and (without hesitation) stepped into the street and at a steady pace walked across the busy boulevard as thousands of motorscooters whizzed around her, gently parting and returning to formation on the other side. A giant liquid sea of metal fish. The old lady calmly and methodically walked in a straight line at a regular pace and made it to the other side, without a scratch.

Marcia and I both took deep breathes, grabbed for each others’ hand and stepped off the sidewalk…

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SuperBono

Found in a bar, in Hoi An, Vietnam:

SuperBono by Tran Trung Linh

The artist’s name is Tran Trung Linh (take a sec to read his ’statement’, it’s a trip). He’s a graduate of Saigon’s HCM Fine Arts University. He creates wicked pop culture infused mashups like this one. I saw another in a shop he sells from, in Hoi An, that had a Mona Lisa exquisitely rendered, on a flat apple green background, listening to an ipod with the same style of superimposed white type, but for the life of me, I can’t remember what it said. Through the generosity of the lady who sells his work, I was invited to go to his studio to talk with him. We spent about 20 minutes talking about the SuperBono painting, his other work and his inspiration. It was an honor to meet him and a totally unexpected pleasure to encounter his work in this tiny little town. This guy is gonna be famous one day, for sure. I tried to buy the Superbono painting from the bar owner, but he had already sold it twice before and was beyond reluctant to part with it for a third time. Some guy in Germany and another in Australia got there before me.

Update: Tran Trung Linh (or someone posing as him), just posted his website in the comments, so I thought I’d add it to this post. Linh has a website! although since it’s flash and there are no meta keywords or description in the html header it’s virtually impossible to find in a search. Check it out: PsychoLinh.com. great stuff, but none of the stuff I really liked is on there. There must be a whole section of pop-icons missing.

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Hoi An

A few hours south of Hué, by bus, is the old port town of Hoi An. Our next stop. Along the way we passed De Nang and Sunset Beach.

ladies at the cloth shop students on their way home from school
bamboo bridge, Hoi An forest walk

Hoi An is a gorgeous picturesque trading town that is now mostly known for it’s high quality tailors and cloth shops. It’s also known for it’s regional dishes, local art and gorgeous 100-200 year old architecture. Hoi An has a wonderful vibe to it, it’s more of what my preconceptions of Vietnam were. A picturesque bustling little town surrounded by large rice paddies in every direction.

We had read about Hoi An from the Rough Guide and had come for the scenery, but Hoi An is really a huge tourist trap and you’d be lucky to escape without putting down at least 100 bucks for tailor-made clothing. The tailors really are amazing and tailor and cloth shops line every street in the downtown area. You can survive for a day or two, without stepping foot in one, but once you do, game over. While we were there, Marcia and I each got two jackets made, a pair of pants, I had two long sleeve shirts made and we both got custom-designed sneakers made from chinese silk. It was mad. All for like 150 to 200 bones. We saw dirty, crusty flashpackers (like ourselves) getting fitted for imitation Brioni suits, like they were ordering pizzas. By the end of our stay in Hoi An, Marcia was walking me around the town with horse blinders on. It’s a trap I tell ya. But in the end, I don’t think either of us will wear the jackets we made. The sneakers either, but I gotta admit, I’ve been wearing the pants like crazy, nothing like tailored clothing, beats the hell out of store bought, any day.

Hoi An is also where we learned about touts. We had encountered them in Bali, Thailand, Cambodia and other parts of Vietnam, but here in Hoi An, they were especially virulent. Some girl would walk up to me, started talking in english and next thing I know we’d have walked 4 blocks to her “uncle’s” cloth shop. Touts here were really only a warm up for the ones we would encounter in India, but they were 10x more harangueish then we had previously experienced.

By the way, if you’re going to Hoi An and you’d like to have clothing tailored, don’t mess around, go straight to “Impressions Boutique”, they have 5 locations in Hoi An and the owner is a whip smart chick who speaks english like a 1920’s Chicago newspaper reporter.

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Kiteboarding Tourney

Kiteboarding RegattaChente Cardenas

A few pictures from The ‘07 Vallarta Kiteboarding Torneo this past weekend, in Bucerias, Nayarit, Mexico.

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Lost at Sea (almost)

The correct title of this post is: Lost at Sea or How I got to hang out with Kings Of Convenience, Feist and Broken Social Scene at Roots in Bucerias.

This post is rediculously too long. there are two parts to it: Part 1 (the surfing/Lost at Sea part) and Part 2 (the getting to hang out with two of your most favorite musicians part). Somehow, they both tie into each other in a nice little way, but reading long pieces of text on the internet sucks, so you can use the following links to jump to whatever part is more your flavor: Part 1 & Part 2

My good buddy Michael was down visiting us from Laguna Beach, last weekend. We spent a few days surfing. On Saturday, we went up to Punta Mita to grab a boat and get dropped off at the Cove (La Bahia). The Cove is a great surf break, just around the bend from Anclote in Punta Mita and just outside the large Bay of Banderas, in open sea. Normally I go with Action Sports when I show up with Pato, they charge us 150 pesos each (about 15 bucks). On this day, since we were two gringos, they wanted 250 pesos each (better known as “highway robbery”). I told dude that’s the gringo rate, that I live in Bucerias and I’d be willing to pay 300 pesos total. Dude said no way. A few minutes minutes later dude came back with 400. I didn’t budge and dude wouldn’t either, so we went down the road to some guy named Oscar, another one of the boat operators. Oscar tried to give me the gringo rate as well and we settled on 350 pesos. Still too much, but better than nothing. Oscar’s boat driver dropped us off at the Cove and I asked him to pick us up in two hours.

The Cove was empty, we had the break to ourselves. Solid three and four footers with a high tide, but as the tide lowered, the waves lowered as well. By an hour and a half or so they were tiny. We were ready to go home. Michael is an avid surfer, a close family friend and works in the surfing/clothing industry so we just chatted non-stop about life, work, surfing etc… while waiting to be picked up by our boat. Two hours passed, three hours passed. At about the 3 1/2 hour mark, we both started to get a little suspicious. Michael was smart and wore a hat, I was dumb and did not. By this time, my face was fried and my body was cold from the water. We tried to keep it positive, every time a boat would come out of the bay, we’d assume that it was our guy and each time, we’d be wrong. At the 4 hour mark, we decided that the boat driver had forgotten us and we decided to do something about it. We had three choices:

  1. Swim to shore and walk along the rocks, back to Anclote, barefoot (dangerous)
  2. Swim to shore and try to get picked up by one of the Four Seasons security guards (trespassing)
  3. Swim 2 kilometers out to sea and flag down an incoming boat (boats entering the bay follow a few channels) and hope there are no strong currents that suck us out to sea

We choose swimming to shore. As we got closer to shoreline, we could see the sharp, barnacle-encrusted rocks rising above the water line, the sea urchins below the water and 50 feet of 6 inch water to walk through to make it to the rocky shore. Small waves were threatening to wash us into the rocks. We conferred and chose the 3rd option: paddling out to the channel. It took us about 30 minutes or so to get out towards the channel, missing two boats and finally flagging down the 3rd. A guy from Guadalajara and his two fishing guides, they laughed and handed us cold Pacificos after hearing our story and then radioed in to the port control to let them know what had happened.

After we got back to Anclote and profusely thanked the guys for picking us up, I walked by Oscar, the guy who owned the boat that forgot about us. He immediately launched into some bullshit story about how they had been out to pick us up twice and that we weren’t there. I felt like throttling the jerk-off in the mouth. This is Mexico though and people here have cousins, so my cooler instincts prevailed and so I told him he was full of shit and struck off to file an official complaint with the port captain. My efforts were futile though, as I couldn’t find the captain and I wasn’t about to ask around. As I was walking back to the car, Oscar said that he felt worse about it then I did and I figured that was about as close to an apology as I would get. Oscar is very glad that he didn’t ask me for half the money and I’m glad I didn’t pay up front.

As Michael and I discussed the day’s events, it became clear that we were about as lucky as could be. If we had gone into shore and stepped on an urchin, walking back would have been impossible. If we had swam out to open ocean and the currents had taken us out to sea, we’d be in big trouble. Besides the hour of insecurity of being left out there, the only real damage was a nasty case of sunburn. My face was fried, my nose was literally purple. Jessica hooked me with some aloe and now my face is more tan then red. I can’t complain.

What’s the best way to slough off a potentially bad situation? How bout an impromptu acoustic concert from two of your favorite musicians? Andrew called us at about 8:30pm to tell us that Feist, Kings of Convenience and Broken Social Scene were all down at Roots, eating and that Erlend Oye had brought his guitar and would play if we came down. Andrew was calling everyone he knows to come down and represent our small little “pueblito tipico”. It turns out that they were on a ten day vacation staying in Punta Burros.

Most of the crew conversed amongst themselves, as Erlend grabbed his acoustic guitar and joined our band of onlookers. We ended up being treated to several hushed acoustic songs. The night culminated when I asked Erlend to play “The Build Up” or “know How”, full-well knowing that both are duets with Leslie Feist (who is Marcia’s favorite musician of all time). Erlend started The Build Up and when it came time for Leslie’s verse, we could hear her sweet muffled voice carrying over from the table behind us. Most of the band joined in and we were treated to impromptu versions of several Kings and Feist songs, culminating in a round-the-table over-the-top rendition of “I’d Rather Dance with You” with Leslie Feist on the spoons and glasses. I got most of it down with a little audio grabber thing I have and I’ve been trying to get the tracks off of it for days now (love them Sony products). When I finally figure it out, I’ll post em (I hope they don’t mind). Everyone was taking pictures with their little point-n-shoots and of course I brought along my camera. I did manage to grab a few shots, but honestly I felt really awful sticking this huge camera in their faces when all they were trying to do was grab a bite to eat, so I sat in the background. I get a little weird around people who I perceive to be even slightly celebratory. Must be my time spent in Los Angeles, where going to breakfast involves seeing various levels of celebrity types at any given joint.

It was a great night, the perfect end to a terrible day and even though there wasn’t that much interaction between us, it was great, being in the presence of all these really talented musicians. Especially Kings of Convenience and Feist who are literally the most listened to artists in my iTunes library and have been for years.

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Just Back

We just got back in to town from another weekend in Guadalajara. that city is becoming a second home, hmmmm…

Salim and Paulina had their big church wedding on Saturday, in Lake Chapala, and Raul and Sylvia got married as well, just down the road in Ajijic. So we had our hands full, shuffling from wedding to wedding. I got some great pics though and once I get out from under the work I have at the moment, I’ll take some time to edit/process and upload them.

I’m currently spec’ing out the finishings for the house we’re about to start building just south of Sayulita. It’s been a gnarly few months dealing with permits, engineers, contractors etc…

One of these days I’ll upload the architectural plans. It’s gonna be beautiful if we can ever get the thing started.

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