Category Archives: life in mexico

Luca at Year One

Luca at 11 monthsLuca and his abuelito Francisco

Today is Little Man’s first birthday. Year One. On this day February 5th, one year ago, Luca came into our lives. It’s been a long, strange, hard, wonderful year. A year probably very typical to any new parent and yet so totally foreign to anyone who hasn’t broached that life passage yet. Lil’ Man has grown so much, I can’t believe it. More than that, Marcia and I have grown as well. Grown up. Aged. Deteriorated. Gotten younger at heart. Pushed. Pulled. Exploded. Lost. and Found. The one thing this year has represented to me, above all else is ‘Love’. Unselfish, pure Love for another human being. If I could, I’d put all my experiences, hopes, dreams and desires into him and extinguish my life from this existence, like a mother spider whose young are hatched and her ultimate gift to sacrifice her body for her babies’ survival. Yes, cryptic. But most parents probably feel the same kind of love towards their kids. That’s the kind of ‘Love’ that I have learned this year. And I’m glad the person I get to share it with, is this gentle, brash, glowing, feisty, shy soul we call ‘Luca’. Sometimes I ruminate to myself, I wonder who he was in his last life. I’d love to have met him/her.

Here’s to Luca’s first birthday. chocolate cake for everyone (quite coincidentally, daddy’s favorite).

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Feliz Año Nuevo

Happy New Year to all. From our family to yours,
we wish everyone the best in the twenty-ten decade.

The FladungsThe Fladungs

The Fladung-Varas IIThe Fladung-Varas

A little late, but better than never. We were the kinda family that took down the xmas tree in mid-April, until we all moved to Mexico and the tree became a small palm in the front yard.

Photos taken by my sis at some friends’ wedding a few days before the holidays.

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Luca at Nine Months

Luca is now nine months old and you shall know his velocity.

Little man is starting to get the gist of the whole communication thing, he’s starting to use grunts for “put me down” and weird humming, mmm, hummmm, mmm sounds for “pick me up”, along with a range of arm and leg motions. He’s starting to eat more solidish food and yes, it’s been confirmed that he is indeed of Mexican origin. His favorite of the moment is black beans, that’s ma boy. This month has been all about the deepening of our bond. I’ve felt closer to him in the past couple of weeks than I have since he was born, or should I say that I feel that he is becoming more accustomed to having me around. Probably because he’s finally waking up to the fact that there are two of those adult things that change your diapers, feed you and give you rad hugs: the one with the boobies and the other one. The one with the scratchy-ass beard. We’re finally into the “falling on your head” stage, I don’t think I’ve heard Luca cry this much, ever. Constantly falling, hitting himself in the head or face. Just pick him right up and show him his “peekaboo kisses” book and it is all good.

For some reason the Canon G9 (which does HD btw?! – just figured that one out, smarty panties) had the video setting all messed up and these clips were the result. I think it got set on the “take a video frame every half a second” setting. Add some music and viola…

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Luca at 8 Months

ed-lucaphoto by Isaiah Seret

Yesterday marked Luca’s 8th monthversary. Little man has finally gone mobile, crawling up a storm and terrorizing anything with green leaves on it. He can deplume a plant in minutes. He’s also got a nack for standing up in his crib and walking around the crib in circles. It’ll be days before this kid learns to ride a skateboard and he comes into the house saying “daddy, I think I broke my arm” (flashbacks to when I was a kid). Luca has also established “Object Permanence” which makes hiding things we don’t want him eating/munging-up behind our backs all the more harder. He’s now twice the size of Marcia, gives her piggyback rides around the house and offers to drive when we go anywhere. The kid is 8 months old and is already wearing 18 month old clothing, he is healthy and that’s a good thing, considering he will never know the taste of meat/carne.

Luca has officially entered the talker phase with an unending barrage of baby gibberish, aimed at anyone who could possibly give him attention, friend or stranger. He is a big coquette, flirting with all manners of humanoid bipeds. It’s ironic that he was born of two rather introverted parents, Luca is most surely a people person. An interaction with a new friend on an airplane, in a store or just on the street: Luca’s energy level is amped like a double shot of espresso and he makes friends wherever he goes. Old and young, the only group he has yet to dent is the middle-aged, disaffected, traveling salesman category.

You can’t win em all, kid.

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Me & My Man

me and my man II
me and my man

We’re still up in Upstate NY, exchanging hurricane swells for sweet corn, heirloom tomatos, herb salad and as many different kinds of root beer as I can get my hands on. Little Man’s two bottom teeth came in a few weeks ago and he’s been enjoying his first tastes of hard foods, he’s diggin’ on hard crust bread, watermelon, banana, butternut squash, green grapes, oatmeal and a ton of other good foods. We’re here for another week or so, and then back to the uber hot-humidness to catch up on my tube riding technique.

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Luca at 6 months

Luca @ 25 weeksthe boy and his mom

The soundtrack for this entry: The Vaselines – Son of a Gun

In the past few weeks, Luca has entered a race to see just how fast he can get mobile. From using his stomach muscle to power himself up to a sitting position, to using his arms, to hanging on to the edge of his crib and hoisting himself on to his knees, he’s a ball of swiftly moving body parts. I’m thinking he’ll probably skip crawling and go right to walking. Little Man doesn’t mess around, he is on the move. Anything within arms reach is fair game for him and day by day his range-of-squirminess increases. This kid is gonna be a menace to all the breakable, delicate things in my life very quickly.

Luca’s passion is one of the defining characteristics of his personality. He has a real and vibrant passion for life and you can see it in everything he does. We may still have to get up 5 or 6 times a night and he may get cranky during the day, but he never cries unless there is something genuinely wrong (usually hunger or tiredness) and even then his cries stop cold as soon as he knows we’re on the case. With all the sleep issues we’ve been having over the past few months, this is a total blessing.

When Luca is hanging with mom, dad or abuelita (who’s been staying with us the past few weeks) he’s a constant ball of smiles and weird enthusiastic gurgles and odd noises. A verbal gibberish outpouring of sincere lust for life. After I duck back out of the home office after a few hours of diligent work, he looks up at me, mushes his face, rises his eyebrows, puffs his chest out, his arms shoot out like missiles and he issues the infant version of “What’s up, Pops!” in big, boombastic, bellowing yalps.

This kid is stoked on life.

Luca @ 25 weeksthe boy and his abuelita

Of course there’s another highly significant event that happened this past month: Luca is now officially an American citizen. He has a US Passport and “Consular Report of Birth Abroad” (his birth certificate). After months of arduous haggling with various Mexican government agencies and then scavenging ridiculous streams of garbage paperwork requested by the US government, we finally submitted for his citizenship and a few weeks ago we received everything back.1

Luca is officially a gringo!

I’m telling you all this, now, a week before his 6 month birthday2 because next week we’ll be busy preparing to leave Mexico to spend the month of August in Woodstock, New York. Luca will finally be meeting my whole extended family: my grandfather/mother, uncles, aunts, cousins and assorted rad personages. Emails are sent, the family is psyched and starting to foam at the mouth. Basically, we couldn’t go back to the states until all Luca’s paperwork was submitted and came back approved. That took almost 6 full months between the two douchenozzle bureaucracies.

Now he’s bonified and we’re outta this joint for an extended period of time up north in Gringolandia. It will be the longest period of time I’ve spent in the states since I moved to Mex almost five years ago. I’m beside myself. But honestly, I’m most looking forward to giving my family a chance to get to know Luca and spend quality time with him. That’s priceless.

Happy Birthday Bwoy.

  1. If you are a US citizen and are thinking of having your child abroad, take my advice: don’t even think about it. The paperwork is fucking ridiculous, time consuming and a total headache. All for what? The birth is a little cheaper? I curse international borders and government bureaucracies for making it so hard for us to travel
  2. what exactly do you call a “month” birthday
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Luca at 5 Months

Luca @ 22 weeksHe prefers the “white spine” vintage years. less car ads.

Well, after four days with no internet access and what looks like months of waiting for one ahead of me, I broke down and got myself a Telcel 3G mobile internet connection. I can go anywhere and use my computer, yippeee!1 It costs $45/month with a limit of 3GBs/month, we’ll see how that lasts me.

On with the real story…

In the midst of our insane pack-a-thon and moving schnazmatalia, Luca turned 5 months old on July 5th. To say that these past five to six weeks have been the hardest so far, would be the largest understatement in the short 6000 year old history of this Earth2. Shortly after Marcia’s mom left town at the beginning of June, Luca started waking up 5 and 6 times a night. The first few days were grueling, sometimes all he needed was to burp and others he’d be up for an hour or so and we’d have to pace him around in the house in his stroller, finally get him to bed, only to have him wake up again 45 minutes later. We held out hope that this was just a phase he was going through and it would pass in a few days. Marcia and I were walking zombies and days turned to a week and one week turned to two and so on.

We noticed right away that both his day time and night time sleeping habits had changed. During the day, he would sleep for maybe 45 minutes at a time, no more than twice a day. And at night, if he slept for 3 consecutive hours at a time, we considered this a good night. The days were killing us both, as Luca demanded attention from at least one of the two of us all day long and his lack of sleep was apparent in his moods. He’s a very playful baby, smiling, happy and engaging with everybody, but when he’s in a bad mood, look out.

Luca @ 20 weeks

We began dreading the nights. At times, Luca would wake at full cry. Our ‘tricks’ of getting him back to sleep started to lose potency. We saw multiple doctors, no one could find anything physically wrong with him. Everyone we consulted was telling us to do various versions of the cry it out method. After the second full week, I was agreeing with them. I couldn’t stand it any more. But Marcia stuck it out, resisting the method, looking for something kinder and gentler. Marcia began to take more of the nighttime waking burden, as my grouchiness and groggy clumsiness only woke him up more where her soft touch would often get him back to sleep in minutes. Luca would often wake at between 5 and 6am and as hard as we tried we couldn’t get him back to sleep. So I began to get up with him and start our day, giving Marcia a few consecutive hours alone to catch up on sleep.

As two weeks turned to three and then four, I had begun to resent Marcia for not agreeing to the cry it out method, I just wanted this to be over and it seemed like the easiest/best way out. I was also a little resentful of Luca. It was hard dealing with him and in some ways I shut down and angered easily. I caught myself a few times and ironically, the more I re-engaged the easier dealing with him became. We slowly started to mold to Luca’s erratic sleeping habits. We learned new tricks and ways to constructively deal with him. And just in the past week, in the new house, we’ve both begun to see the light at the end of the tunnel. We’re taking active steps to maintain his schedule, which we really hadn’t done before, for some odd reason – Marcia is very clockworkish – and Marcia and I began to understand how each of our strengths and weaknesses could be played off him.

Luca @ 22 weeksprunes and papaya – keepin’ it regular, ya huuuurd.

The tide really began to turn when we noticed that in different moods, he responded differently. And if you looked closely you could kinda tell what he needed: to be rocked in his stroller, held and rocked, bottle, booby, taken for a walk, to sit upright, etc… I guess we’ve really begun to listen to him. Things really crystalized when we realized that during the day he is truly tired and wants to sleep but can’t. It’s like he’s missing the sleep button. Seeing little bags under his eyes, it’s plain to see that he’s not happy either.

We’re now going into the 6th week of this craziness and he’s sleeping regularly in 3 hour intervals at night, getting up a few other times, but for no more than a quick “chupa” and back to bed. His tantrum hour seems to be 5-6am, on good nights I have to stroll him around the house and on bad nights I have to stroll him around the half-vacant “coto” we live in. fun. But somehow it’s getting easier and we feel like we’re in this together, all three of us. We are trying to find ways for Luca to sleep more and he wants to sleep more. We’re hoping that increased solid foods and daily exercise (swimming in our new community pool) will help get this kid – at the very least – a little more regularized.

It’s been a rough month!

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Field Notes

Danny Hess 5'7shaper’s mark by Danny Hess
Arrrggg, I am in moving hell. We’re doing the biennial “schlep all your crap from the old house to the new house” thing. This new house is something different. It’s ours. For the second time in my life, I am a homeowner. It’s the first time for Marcia. We are both wonked out from the home buying process. We’re also walking zombies, Luca is keeping us up all night. Our days are filled with packing, sweating, moving, cleaning, sweating, throwing crap away, packing, cleaning, sweating, moving, etc…. It’s a new house, so nothing works. Construction dust everywhere. Scorpions and spiders. All I can think about is getting wet.

The new house won’t have a telephone line for easily another month, so I’m looking into a 3G tether service for my computer. what. a. hassle. can someone say iphone plus 3G tethering?

I spent the 4th of July sliding water hills on a slowly growing swell. I test drove a friend’s Danny Hess 5′7″ quad. It was slightly heavy out of the water, but inside, it’s quite amazing how floaty it is. The waves I was on were a little mushy so I need another go ’round but I’m in awe of its tight response. Add this board to the dream quiver list.

Two nights ago I had one of those sunset sessions that you spend entire years waiting for. Picture perfect sunset and head high swell with overhead clean up sets. I had some really nice, fast rides with the single fin pumpkin seed. I managed quite a few ‘cheater fives’, did I mention the board is 6′2″? I love that pumpkin seed. I sat in the water and watched the entire sunset from start to finish, maybe 15 minutes of pure zoned-outness. The sky was super clear with a few puffy storm clouds on the horizon. The blues, purples, yellows, oranges and reds were crisp and uninhibited, there wasn’t a single shade of grey to be seen. Amongst a million other things that the heart desires, I need to “acquire” a water housing.

Working on an exciting, big, new project here in Q.Peepslandia. Still in the conceptual stages, but really hoping this thing takes off. It’s a family business (the best kind). I’m totally stoked on it. We’ll see where it leads.

In other news, they say that the army has closed highway 200 about an hour south of Pascuales, so if you’re thinking about going down to Michoacan via 200, try to contact locals in the area for more info. Supposedly, there is some altercation between the semi-autonomous communities in Michoacan and the army. Obviously I don’t know much, but that’s what I hear. If anyone knows anything more and has links, have at it in the comments.

WRT lack of internet: posting will be very light. stay tuned.

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Plywerk

plywerkplywerk
plywerkplywerk

Here are some photos of Luca I received in the mail recently.

Beautiful printing and backing job by Plywerk, printed on archival glossy paper and laminated. The beautiful substrate is constructed bamboo plank. I’ve written about Plywerk before, their products look great online, but in person they are beyond beautiful. The photos are excellently printed, spot on color and crispness, the lamination and adhesion job is perfect and the bamboo substrate is a piece of art by itself. The details in the bamboo construction are insane, from the way the bamboo is cut and glued together (beautiful grain) to the cut-out hanging mechanism. The design is all in the details.

Maggie M has some wicked examples of plywerk’d photos as well.

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Me & Lil’ Man

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My father took this photo a few weekends ago.
It was Luca’s first time swimming in the pool.

He loved it.

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Just Keep Paddling…Simple

photo by Ed Fladung

Jim Moriarty is the CEO of Surfrider and writes a blog called Oceans Waves Beaches, which has tons of good/interesting/thoughtful content. Jim is totally dialed-in online and uses serious social networking skills to build “onramps” for people to learn about and support the clean-water initiatives Surfrider are fighting for.

Earlier this week Jim posted a little something about me and my photography. He compared me to Charles Eames, probably the best compliment I have ever received. Ever. See the post here: If Eames surfed… he’d be Ed Fladung

The photo above was featured on Jim’s post. The person in the photo is a guy named Gabe, who works for a large sneaker company up near Portland, Oregon. I met Gabe through Chum, when they were down here on a surf trip last year. I sent him a link to Jim’s post, with the subject line “Almost Famous”. This is what he wrote back:

Ah, that Mex trip seems like a very distant dream sitting in my cube buried under an ever-growing mound of emails.

Wish I could follow my folly like mister QP and “quit my job, sell my car, rent out my house and move to Mexico.”

Until then I’ll live vicariously. Thanks for the stoke,

G

And this was my reply:

The grass is always greener.

Sometimes, as I sit here, sweating profusely, at my computer in the 90% humidity, trying to hussle up some work, I think to myself, shit it would be so awesome to work for someone else, a large sneaker/lifestyles brand and collaborate with other people in the office and kick off work at 6 and go grab some thai or vietnamese food and a good microbrew stout beer… sometimes I even miss the smell of the low-pile industro carpeting and off-gassing of plastic cubicles.

and then a friend calls up and says let’s go surfing, and the world is right again.

keep in touch. saludos,

// Ed

Though the tagline of this site reads: “I quit my job, sold my car, rented out my house and moved to Mexico.” That line is essentially a very dense and layered subject boiled down to an easily digestible one-liner. It works great to get the immediate message across – it’s good marketing. But behind it lies a more complicated truth. And though I’m hesitant to talk about it much here, it’s important to show that side.

Life is hard, no matter where you rest your head. It helps being in a warm, sunny, (occasionally) surf-filled little mexican town, but even that has its own complications. When you trade latitudes, longitudes, cultures and socio-economic structures, you’re essentially trading one set of good and bad things for another. After a year or two, you’ll start to miss the good things and a few years after that, you’ll start to forget about the bad things. The real juice in life, is learning how to combine the good things from both places and minimize the bad. Not exactly easy but not altogether unattainable.

I really appreciate it when people write in and say they dig my photography and live a little bit vicariously through me. And I admit I live a very blessed life. I had the opportunity to change my life and take a different path, one that altered my life irreversibly (for better or for worse). It helped that I had my family here to support and encourage me. But I would like to acknowledge that Mexico hasn’t always been the easiest. In ways it has been much harder than the slightly more predictable trajectory of my old life. On a daily basis, I consciously choose to keep it positive, rather than trying to grab on to the negatives and write about them, I just them float by. Sometimes the negatives are almost too easy to dwell on. They make for impassioned, juicy writing. But after a while the negative current envelops you and you begin to forget the good things about the place where you lay your head.

In A Brokedown Melody, Gerry Lopez sums it up beautifully and eloquently: “all ya gotta do is just keep paddling… simple.”

He’s so right.

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Packaging / Product

img_1879packaging on the left, product on the right

Our household kinda fell off the rechargeable battery bandwagon for awhile. I was religious about my battery charging schedule but once I got in to event photography, my stash of rechargeables just wasn’t cutting it. Flashes sap AAs like limonadas and rechargeable batteries are known to lose their fill strength as they age1. Marcia finally guilted me back to my senses and we bought some brand new rechargeables. Single-use batteries: you no longer have shelter here. But, I almost didn’t buy the rechargeables based on the obscene size of the packaging. These “packs” are from Costco and tons of small items like batteries, ipods, dvds, cds etc… come in these packages. I’m pretty sure this packaging is mandated by Costco to keep display goods orderly. The package is like 20x larger than the product and it’s plastic. So unnecessary and for a product that is supposed to be relatively ecocentric. Seems so contrarian.

When people talk about self-regulating industries, I think of things like this and chuckle to myself.

  1. just like your laptop battery
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Micro Shacks n Quick Snaps

waitingphoto by Ed Fladung
mctavish photo by Ed Fladung

Over the past day or so we’ve gotten a taste of the first true south swell of the season. It’s nice to see the corduroy again, it’s been so long. I brought the gear to the beach this morning, but managed to surf more than snap photos. All the local headz were in attendance after what seems like months since the last decent swell. Nice to see everyone in the water, though my break choice quickly clogged up. I was content to sit far on the inside with the fish grabbing quick drops and getting micro shacks as the second peak unceremoniously closes out. ridiculous fun. Sometimes, after a long drought, it just feels so nice to get bowled over by a chest high wave and pulled down to the darkness and tossed like a rag doll.

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Luca at 4 Months

luca at 16 weeks luca at 16 weeks

Little Buddha.

The boy turns 4 months old, today, and yet it seems like it’s been more like a year. Seriously, I can’t believe it’s only been 17 weeks, I can’t even imagine my life without his warm smiling presence. What the fuck did we do with all that free time?

This past month Marcia’s mom had been staying in town, helping us during the day, spending time with the boy. Her help has been a godsend to us both and was the impetus for my first surf trip away from the boy. That trip was so very necessary and although it recharged the stoke factor1, I still went to sleep at night wondering if little man was sleeping ok and if his little brain was developed enough to miss the white, hairy, male parental unit. Somewhere along this past month, the boy hit a massive growth spurt and jumped from 0-3 month old clothing straight to clothing for one-year olds. He’s definitely gotten a lot chubbier these past few weeks, but he’s also grown like a sprout, some 10 centimeters in a month and change.

Despite outwards appearances life has been pretty rough recently, here in Mexico. The economic depression/downturn and the one-two punch of on-going damage from media-induced swine flu and drug-war hysteria put Mexico’s tourism industry into a full nelson. Life can be very stressful here and you most certainly have to elevate the hustle to a whole nother dimension. When the stress hits paralysis proportions, I just take a half-hour break and spend some quality time with the boy. He’s like the anti-stress. All that worrisome crapola in the back of my head settles down and for that brief period of time, all is good. I always thought that having a kid would make my life more stressful2 but it’s actually the opposite. Luca chills me out like nothing I’ve ever experienced. Even when he’s cranky, tired and crying, I sit down with him, hug his little dough-boy body, listen to his chuckle and I’m right as rain.

Sometimes, I look at him and I look at Marcia and I look at him, and I say to Marcia, “Where the hell did this little human being coming from?”. Having kids is a “trip” and I do mean that in the psychedelic/surrealistic/philosophic manner. If you’ve never really thought about just exactly where the soul/mind/consciousness comes from, having kids will get that conversation started. Luca may be a combination of our DNA, but he is almost certainly his own person, with his own set of likes and dislikes and although his experience will shape who he becomes, the observer is already in place, watching. His mind is there observing the world, and I’m pretty sure that part did not come from either of his parents.

On a different note: Luca – I’d like to say that it’s a wonderful experience to be your dad and I’d like to apologize for putting your junk up on the internet. Your mom and I love you more than you could possibly know.

  1. considering the total dearth of good swell up where I live
  2. It defintely does light a fire under your ass to get things like family finances more stable
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Cosmic Micro Slides

sunset over vallartaphoto by Ed Fladung

Three sojourners in need of trim, we cased the flat ocean for signs of bumps. Hombreros in boches passing us going the other way, yelling “you’re only going to be disappointed”. But we looked and found in the unlikeliest of places, cosmic micro slides, comedically micro cosmic yet exactly what we needed. Longboarding of the leash-less variety, each of us gave our pound of flesh to the low-tide reef and at least one getting the never ending gift of sea urchin kisses. Horizontal bliss. and the sunset was glorious.

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