El Chorrillo
Word of impending swell had us out at The Usual, on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Four sessions in three days. No real swell to be had, but some occasional head high waves with way too much time in between proper sets. Saturday morning’s session was remarkable for it’s small but powerful waves with rides lasting almost right to the beach. I had several memorably floaters and a nice carve or three, the singlefin was in fine form. Sometimes it’s as if the board calls to me to ride it in different ways (as opposed to the regular thruster stance). Feet moving all over the board, feet together - sideways or face forward, crouched stance, hand on the rail. This board has stories to tell.
I awoke on Sunday to little bombs hitting the beach and I knew our phantom swell had arrived, most likely stopping in to Michoacan for a coffee break and chilaquiles and then heading on up the coast, two days late. I headed to La Virgen to find 5 foot backs and off-shore winds. La Virgen’s mushy rollers sometimes lead to nowhere waves - they crash overhead and seconds later you find yourself riding a shoulder with no foam ball. Others lead to wide-open faces of rolling water. I had a bit of both. It was nice to get the singlefin in to overhead conditions, total champ. The left was firing.
John from Vintage Cotton has been in town since the middle of last week, and he’s been joining me on our daily forays. It was nice to have some decent swell come in, so that he could have a taste of how good this area can be. But truth-be-told, he was happy with the solid 2-3 footers at The Usual and their long trimmed out lines. John brought down a gang of shirts for us locals and me and the homies are very thankful for the hook up. You wouldn’t believe how far good schwag hookups go down here. Thanks John.
John was out on Sunday with me for the nice swell and I had to cut my session a little short as my stomach started acting up. I thought it might be from a bad mix of chelas and sangrias the night before, but by the time I got to the house, I had full blown chorrillo. and I was knocked out for the rest of Sunday in a hazed stupor, as whatever bug I had ran through my system every 15 minutes, all day long.
Today, there’s still some leftover swell and Pato just called to drag me out to La Alberca. But I’m still weak from yesterday’s war and I still feel like an alien just hatched out of my abdomen, so I’m taken ‘er easy.
All-in-all a good coupla days minus the alien chestburster part.
